The Makings of a Man

Your entire outfit has been carefully selected and is ready for showcase. Your shoes are polished, the pants are pressed, and your crisp dress shirt awaits you. You slide into your outfit and give yourself a once over in the mirror, but something is not quite right. Your dress shirt is not cooperating. You feel like you are being asphyxiated by your dress collar. Your sleeves bear an uncanny likeness to the great Pee Wee Herman. Gentlemen, you are not alone. Not all men wear dress shirts on a regular basis, so some have absolutely no idea what those numbers mean in the inside of their dress shirt collar. I'll explain those mysterious numbers that read 17 36/37.

The number above is actually my own dress shirt size. The first number represents my neck size and the second set of numbers represent my sleeve length. Both numbers are in inches. Some men remember a long lost number from high school and proceed to take an educated guess from there. If the gentleman has either gained or loss weight through the years; it is in his best interest to have the proper measurements taken by a professional salesperson. This could be what stands between you looking like you stumbled into your big/little brother's closet and looking like a true gentleman.

• Take into consideration that dress shirts may shrink after several washings. Allow final sizing to make up for possible shrinkage.
• You should be able to fit 1-2 fingers comfortably between your collar and neck.
• Sleeves should reach the base of the thumb and cover entire wrist. Your sleeve shouldn't retract when bending your elbow.

Paul Stuart Light Blue Paisley tie $118.50


I’ve been looking to jazz up my necktie collection for the spring season. At the top of my list is the paisley necktie. Fun and at the same time serious; the paisley can give a pop to an otherwise conservative look. Conversely, it can enhance an already vibrant and playful ensemble. Pictured are some looks that the gentleman may want to explore at his preferred place of shopping.  


Banana Republic Blue Paisley $39.99





Banana Republic Orange Paisley $59.50

Anyone who is familiar with me knows that I have an absolute love for neckwear. I am always on the lookout for a beautiful necktie to add to my growing collection. Here, I have paired my Ike Behar necktie with a linen suit and striped dress shirt. The khaki color of the suit serves as a neutral, so the shirt and tie combination take center stage. The two patterns work well together because the dominant gold color of the necktie picks up the subtle yellow stripes in the shirt. The brown stripes in the shirt also plays off the khaki color of the suit.


The scale of the two patterns work together beautifully; as neither pattern overpowers the other. The purple and olive geometric print in the tie gives this outfit a certain "pop" that is attractive to the eye. All three elements of the tie, shirt, and suit match and are in balance. The gentleman should always seek a path of bringing stylish elements of his ensemble together; everything works together without losing individuality. Style and balance; that is of course the Makings of a Man.

Why This Works

This outfit consists of a windowpane sportcoat, striped dress shirt, and paisley tie. The windowpane is the dominant pattern while the other two patterns are secondary. Patterns should be mixed to enhance the outfit and not overpower each other. The light blue dress shirt catches the blue in both the tie and sportcoat. The burgundy tie also has hints of olive that coincide with the sportcoat.

Hints for the Gentleman

1) One pattern (preferably the suit) should be dominant in a 3-pattern outfit

2) Pay attention to scale (size of pattern); patterns shouldn't visually compete

3) Look for secondary colors to tie an outfit together

The gentleman should take a second to examine the elegant blend of color and pattern; the goal should be understated yet visually striking.

Wow, I see my fellow gentlemen have taken my advice from my White Out post.  You now have your fresh clean white dress shirt. The next move is critical. The time has come for you to select the appropriate neckwear. Keep in mind that we are striving for a conservative look similiar to that in which Barack Obama has adopted in his political career. You want a look that is both serious and professional. Your selection can make or break your entire outfit. Your tie is the centerpiece that is first noticed in your ensemble. Your tie is on the front line in the "War on First Impressions". You want to keep your look understated, yet elegant. Your choice should be a solid, striped, or small geometric tie in varying shades of blue, red, black, or gray. For knots, the gentleman should employ a four in hand or semi-windsor when knotting their tie. His tie should just meet his belt line. There should be a understated harmony between the dress shirt and tie.

The Burberry tie above is a perfect example of a tone on tone tie in black. There is a subtle check pattern, but the tie performs like a solid due to its tonal nature. Retail $130.00

Looking to spruce up that suit or sports coat for the fall? Take a look at these Hickey Freeman Gingham Silk Pocket Squares. With six colors to choose from, you shouldn't have a problem adding some color that is playful and sharp at the same time. For more information, please visit Hickey Freeman.

For a moment, I'd like to take you back in time to 2008. I'd like to take you back to then-Sen. Barack Obama's presidential campaign. While on the campaign trail, there was one thing that is always constant: a white dress shirt. Nothing says sharp more than a crisp clean white dress shirt. With the rise of the white tee and striped dress shirt, the white dress shirt has become the forgotten ally in the gentleman's arsenal of stylish weaponry. Whether in a point, spread, cutaway collar, french cuff, or barrel cuff; the white dress shirt offers a blank canvas that gentlemen can display their sartorial creativity.


Complex in it's simplicity, it is the most conservative and sophisticated dress shirt one can wear. Complex you may ask? One can argue that it is just a plain white dress shirt. The difficulty lies in the very fact that it is simply white. With no colorful details working for you, every element of the gentleman's wardrobe becomes critical. From his tie to his pocket square, he must now rely on his creativity to breath life into his dress shirt.

This is where good intentions sometimes go awry. Being forced to access his creative thinking, men tend to over-think the situation and make things worse. Loud suits and even louder ties overcompensate the simplicity of the white shirt. Before we tackle those issues, let me first tell you what shirt you should be wearing.
















When shopping for a white dress shirt, I look for a shirt that is 100% cotton, has strong stitching, and has the correct fit. I suggest visiting finer men's department stores and comparing different brands. You will be able to find the appropriate dress shirt for you. For further retail information for featured items, please visit highlighted retailers.

If you have or desire to obtain a corporate job, avoid neck and facial tattoos. Despite the changing mindset on tattoos, they still carry negative connotations of prison, rebellion, and thuggery. If you can't hide it under a shirt, think twice about it.







If you have no desire of going corporate or have a job that doesn't deal with clients, then by all means, go crazy. Get face tats, and full sleeves. Do whatever floats your boat...like these guys.

Arguably my favorite accessory to the two piece suit. Suspenders or ''galluses'', known as ''braces'' in Olde English, are fabric or leather straps worn over the shoulders to hold up trousers. Suspenders should be worn with class. The unproper usage of this accessory is being abused by todays adolscents. I do not believe suspenders should be worn with any type of jeans. This is not fashionable taste. It ruins the distinguished look.


I personally prefer braces. Most people don't understand the difference. Regular suspenders are attached on the top of the trouser. Braces typically attach to the inside of the trousers with clips or with buttons. Such braces are usually considered white collar wear and are of high-quality. You can purchase braces at any upscale department store.

Rules to wearing suspenders:

1. Never wear suspenders with a belt or any other accesory that hold's up your trousers .
2. Your supsenders should match your shirt , tie, bow tie, or trousers.
3. Refrain from gaudy prints , or tacky animal prints.
4. Adjust suspenders so that your comfortable and pants are at the proper height of your waist .


You can find quality suspenders or braces at these websites


1. http://www.macys.com/
2. http://www.polo.com/
3. http://www.josbank.com/
4. http://www.neimanmarcus.com/

So I've noticed that too many people (not just men) don't know the difference between their patterns and prints. This is important because you look dumb mixing them and saying them incorrectly to others. Like my man John Witherspoon said in Boomerang, "You got to coordinate." So below I have provided several patterns for your new upgraded swag.
Argyle

Class Dismissed!!!

Women notice everything from head to toe. So when you're sitting down and your socks don't match, you're not smiled upon. Your sock game can put you over the top, or simply drown you.

"A man who does not care about his appearance, does not care about much ", Fonzworth Bentley.

So how do I step my sock game up you ask:

Step 1 Always make sure your socks are clean, and pristine.
Step 2 Always make sure your socks match.
Step 3 There are different socks for different ocassions.
Step 4 DO NOT wear white tube socks with dress pants, chinos, or dress shoes.
Step 5 Always keep a pair of black, blue, and brown dress socks.
Step 6 The only time you should be wearing white tube socks are daily casual usage or the gym.

HOW YOUR SOCK GAME CAN PUT YOU AHEAD:

Argyle socks = Timeless Fashion - Only super sophisticated people wear argyles.

Suspenders and Belts (AHHHH!!!!!!), you cannot wear both at the same time. How many times do I have to teach these dudes that? Maybe my diagram below will help:

Suspenders = Belt = 1

therefore,

Suspenders + Belt = 2 and you only want 1

Okay, well maybe that was too much, but this is a serious epidemic. In proper dress etiquette a man wears suspenders to hold his pants up and to generally look more dashing. The thing is, since the suspenders are holding up your pants you have no need to wear a belt. Not only are you doing double the work, but you look dumb. I know America doesn't teach our young Black men how to dress for success (that's why I'm here), but you got to know the rules.

Now there is one time when both are allowed, and that's with women's lingerie. For further example, please view the photo below (oh boy!!!).

----Class dismissed

No offense to any man who reads this, looks down at their feet and sees a piece of synthetic, manmade material separating their big toe from the other 4 but I just have to get this off my chest. Its getting hot as balls outside and all I see walking around is grown men in thong flip flops.


Can someone please tell me when the word “thong” became synonymous with the word “man”? I know the first word that pops in my head when I hear the word “thong” is women. Why you may ask? Because since forever, women have been wearing thongs so they don’t show panty lines and to also show some PG-13 skin in an Uncle Luke video. Do I find anything wrong with thongs and women? No! But do I find everything wrong with thongs and men, hell yeah!

Now that I have supplied a history lesson on the thong, let’s see where the thong has ventured over the past years. First, we have male strippers wearing thong....why in the world would a man want a piece of fabric up their crack? My guess is that its the ultimate wedgie and everyone knows their first instinct when they get a wedgie...find a corner where no one is looking and get it out by any means neccessary. If I were a male stripper, screw the whole thong idea, I’m coming out in my birthday suit.

Next came the thong flip flop. Women wearing thong flip flops, I salute you. They are light, colorful, comfortable, and let’s face it, they look pretty good on you (this depends on the status of your feet though). You throw them on in the spring/summer to go out to the store, walk around outside, or down at the beach. Overall, its a good look for most of you. I guess with the success of the womens thong flip flop, some corporate “genius” figured “hey, we could probably get men to wear them as well”. So from that statement in a board meeting probably in California, they told their factories in China to start making them bigger; thus they did and now we have one of the greatest catastrophies since white people with dreadlocks.

With the unfortunate success of the male thong flip flop, larger, more established and fashionable companies jumped on the bandwagon. Coach, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, they all have the male thong flip flop. Yes, they are constructed of some of the finest materials in the world but let’s face it, a thong is a thong; a man still looks out of place wearing these. You may think this is a personal preference but do me a favor and take a look around and look at a man wearing thong flip flops. Then you will see how silly they look.

Just like the wearable thong, what man really wants a wedgie? Then again, who really wants a toe-wedgie? I know I don’t. I think the approved flip flop for men should be the slip on flip flop like those made by nike, adidas, etc…if you want to rock a more fashonable flip flop, go for it. Just make sure all your toes touch each other and not sandwich a piece of foam. If you beg to differ, feel free to comment.

The Yankee fitted, the un-official sign of the Northeast or doing ganster activity. The Yankee fitted has absolutely nothing to do with baseball, it is a fashion staple in it's own right. It's been worn with complete suits, with street wear, and for sports allegiance. If you have baggy jeans, a white T-shirt, and Timberlands, the Yankee fitted is essential to your ensemble.

I appreciate something so simple being such a intricate part of an outfit. Like when I see someone wear a Phillies hat I think they are blooded-up. When I see a Celtics, I know it's just to match the green in an outfit; unless you're really a fan or from the Boston area. But not a Yankee fitted, it works for all outfits, anytime anywhere. Below I have supplied some notable looks incorporating the Yankee fitted.

How do I tie a Double Windsor?

1.Lift up the collar of your shirt. Place the tie around the back of your neck so that the wide end hangs down on the side of your dominant hand, a little more than twice as low as the thin end.

2.Cross the wide end once over the front of the thin end and then around the back of the thin end a few inches below your neck.

3.Slip the wide end through the back of the V-shape made by the knot, pulling it out the front of the V-shape toward your nondominant hand.

4.Wrap the wide end around the knot on the nondominant side. Continue to wrap the wide end around to the front of the knot on the dominant hand side.

5.Slip the wide end through the front of the V-shape made by the knot, pulling it out the back of the V-shape toward your dominant hand.

6.Wrap the wide end around the knot.

7.Pull the wide end through the back of the V-shape formed by the knot.

8.Tuck the wide end down through the front loop of the knot.
9.Pull down gently on the wide end from below the knot until the knot is tight.

10.Grasp the thin end with your non-dominant hand and slid the knot up to your neck.

11.Flip your collar down, button up and you're ready to go!